Extractor Fan
Installation Bristol

A straightforward wall or ceiling fan with existing wiring: 1–2 hours. A new circuit, loft-ducted system, or inline fan installation: 2–4 hours. Greg will give you a time estimate when quoting.

Yes — any new electrical circuit or rewiring in a bathroom is notifiable under Part P. As a NAPIT-registered electrician, Greg self-certifies all work. You receive a completion certificate at no extra cost. This is essential for insurance, selling your home, and landlord compliance.

The duct running through your loft isn't insulated. Warm moist air meets the cold duct, condenses, and runs back into the fan. The fix is insulated rigid or semi-rigid duct — not a more powerful fan.

Usually one of three causes: (1) no fresh air intake — the room is too tightly sealed for the fan to work properly; (2) the duct is kinked, blocked, or excessively long; or (3) the fan's rated airflow is too low for the room volume. Greg diagnoses the actual cause before recommending a fix.

A fan with a built-in humidity sensor that switches on automatically when moisture rises above a set level — typically 70–80% RH — and keeps running until humidity drops. Far more effective than a timer or a fan that relies on someone remembering to switch it on.

The mechanical part — cutting the hole, fitting the grille — is DIY. Any new wiring in a bathroom is notifiable under Part P and should be done by a registered electrician. Using an unregistered person means the work isn't certified, which matters on insurance claims and property sale.

Part F requires a minimum of 15 l/s (54 m³/h) for bathrooms. For kitchens it's 30 l/s (108 m³/h) adjacent to a hob. In practice, most bathrooms benefit from a 100 m³/h fan. Greg calculates based on your room volume and duct run.

Not necessarily — and often not. Humidity-controlled fans sound ideal in theory, but in a typical UK home the humidity in a bathroom stays elevated for hours: a wet towel takes 3–6 hours to dry, and the whole time the fan is running. If your bathroom is near a bedroom, a humidity fan that runs until 2am is a real problem. For most homes, the right combination is a correctly sized fan with a 15–30 minute time delay, a trickle vent for background ventilation, and an adequate door undercut so the fan can actually draw air. Every property needs a proper assessment — there is no universal "best" fan type.

Usually one of four causes: (1) the fan's humidity threshold is set too high — factory defaults are often calibrated for warmer, drier climates; (2) there's no air intake — without a trickle vent or adequate door gap, the fan is fighting against a sealed room and can't move air effectively; (3) the duct run is too long or too kinked, reducing airflow below what the fan's rating suggests; or (4) the moisture source is structural — cold surfaces causing surface condensation that ventilation alone won't resolve. A proper site assessment identifies which applies to your property.

Significantly. Victorian and Edwardian solid-wall homes have a degree of natural air infiltration that modern well-sealed properties don't — this changes the background ventilation balance and affects how hard a fan needs to work. Newer builds to Part L (energy efficiency) standards are very airtight, making trickle vents and door gaps essential companions to any extractor fan. Flats and maisonettes have different duct routing constraints. Properties with a history of damp or condensation need a more thorough assessment before recommending any solution. Greg takes all of this into account when quoting.

No — and this is stated clearly in our Terms & Conditions. We are not insured for roofing work. Where the duct exits through the roof, we install the fan, the wiring, and run insulated ducting through the loft, leaving it neatly terminated and ready for connection. You'll need a roofer or builder to supply and install the ventilating tile. Once the tile is in place, the connection to our ductwork is straightforward. If a ventilating tile is already installed, we can connect directly and complete the job in one visit. Ask us if you need a roofer recommendation — we know reliable local tradespeople in Bristol.

For some installations — particularly straight-through-wall fans where you can send us good photos — we can often quote accurately without a visit. For anything involving a loft duct run, inline fan, new circuit, or an existing problem (dripping fan, inadequate extraction), a visit is needed to properly assess duct routing, circuit availability, and any complications. Our detailed enquiry form allows you to upload photos of the bathroom, the proposed fan location (internal and external), and your consumer unit — this often allows us to give you an accurate price without needing a separate survey visit.